lenten processions

one of the alfombras at the church

since the maya population is predominantly (ostensibly) catholic, the weeks leading up to Semana Santa, the week before easter, are a big deal.  we were there during this time and saw some cool stuff.

(I say “ostensibly” catholic because the reality is that many people practice a religious mix of catholicism and traditional maya faith.  although there are many beautiful churches – mostly built by the maya – and many of the typical catholic holidays are celebrated, there are also other gods and other traditions.  even in the churches themselves there are many nods to ancient maya beliefs snuck into the design and structure.)

a close-up of one of the floats

there are many processions even before holy week, with floats, musicians and the faithful walking through the streets.  the “floats” are huge platforms carried by 100 men, showing life-sized replicas of the stations of the cross.  we saw some of these floats being staged ahead of time for the processions.  they really are enormous, and have built-in leather spaces for each of the men.

spaces for those who carry the float

procession

many men will belong to a religious society specific to certain saints.  they and their families will have responsibilities for festivals and other events during the year.  the same seems to be true for Semana Santa processions.  on our last day there, ahead of one of the processions planned for later in the day, we saw bunches of men walking down toward the center of town in purple robes.  they were on their way to carry floats.

even more amazing are the sawdust carpets (alfombras) laid down in the streets for the processions.  we saw a couple different ones on display at the main cathedral in Antigua, and two of our travelling companions also saw one in the process of being made.  as you can see from the photos, the carpets are intricately made and very colorful.  they will also include fruits, vegetables, flowers and plants to complete the designs.

a little bit of research tells me that Antigua is actually one of the more famous locations for great examples of these carpets.  I wondered how they managed to make such tiny , beautiful, consistent designs on rough cobblestone streets, but it turns out they put down a layer of plain sawdust or sand to give an even base.  duh.  it can take 6 hours or more for a family or team of people to complete a modest-sized alfombra, with the work often happening at 2 and 3am.  according to one source, they can cost $400-1200, so it’s fortunate that people never step on them until the procession comes by.

the process of making an alfombra, photo by Gerri Barr

the population of Antigua during Semana Santa swells from under 35,000 to over 200,000, and I heard even higher numbers from one of the locals.  not only are all the hotels filled with guests, but everyone who lives in the vicinity will have their family and extended family staying with them, as many as will fit.  it would be an awesome thing to see some day!



another of the alfombras at the church





look at how huge (long) that float is!